The worlds largest cave: Hue and Dong Hoi

It was refreshing only to spend 4 hours on a bus from Hoi An to Hue, and we had heard so many good things about Hue that we were eager to get there. With a gem of a hotel and our first private pool in nearly 8 months, we could have spent more time just soaking up the sun at the pool side whilst sipping on cocktails. It felt a little strange sitting back and doing nothing, when we knew how much the area had to offer. In close vicinity to the city, there are the DMZ (demilitarised zone) tunnels and the worlds largest cave in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang national park. We had to make some decisions as to what exactly we wanted to see. The tunnels were quickly scratched from our to-do list, as they are too similar to the Chu Chi tunnels we visited in Saigon. This left the caves. Situated in a national park, 4 hours away from Hue and buried deep in a forest, the day tours going there didn’t make much sense. With 8 hours of travel and only an hour for visiting the colossal cave systems, we didn’t think the tour option would work for us. With our poolside antics over slightly quicker than planned, we said goodbye to Hue and took a local bus to the town of Dong Hoi.

Pool side cocktails.

Not the best form.

Dong Hoi (4 hours north of Hue) is the closest town to the caves and the best option for a base. It probably wouldn’t shock you to hear that we hired a scooter early the next morning. With a 40 minute ride out to the cave entrance, we gave ourselves a full day of exploring the area. Not only was this option considerably cheaper than the tour from Hue, but we had far more freedom. This felt good.

At the caves, we hired a boat and joined 10 others for the hour long ride along the river. The countryside was incredibly beautiful. Huge green mountains shoot up from the bank of the river and as we meandered along, we got to see local life on the water. Farmers bathing their water buffaloes and fisherman catching delights for the local markets were just some of the glimpses we got into the traditional life here. As the sun beat down relentlessly, we edged closer to a mountain and at the bottom, an eerie, black mouth. Nature was inviting us inside and we didn’t want to turn her down.

No turning back.

We slowly crept forward and into the mouth of the cave. As we entered, the engine was cut and the silence surrounded us like an evil aura. As our eyes adjusted to the blackness, we quickly saw the beauty and magnitude of the caves. The huge stalactites hung down above us like jagged teeth, dripping cold water onto our clammy shoulders. As we floated deeper into the cave, we approached a small beach landing and disembarked onto the land. From here, we would continue by foot, hundreds of meters under rock and at the mercy of mother nature. The equally impressive stalagmites thrust up from the damp floor and as we weaved between them, we felt like Indianan Jones on a quest for a lost land.

Stalactites or stalagmites?

Back into the sunlight.

Our caving experience didn’t stop here. A further 20 minute scooter ride along deserted roads took us to the Paradise Cave. This was the big one! But ‘big’ doesn’t really do this incredible cave justice. With a cavern over 80 by 80 meters big, we were struck by its size. Dim lights steer you down steps and to the base of the cave. From there, we could walk further deeper into the cave system and view the different rock formations, each one different from the next. The feeling of being inside a mountain is so amazing. Slightly daunting at times, but always awesome. There are lights inside that illuminate the entire cave. However, you could really appreciate what it must have been like to discover the caves for the first time with nothing but a flash light in hand.

Staircase into oblivion.

More spooky rock formations.

Entrance/exit.

We never expected to be so struck by the magnitude and impressiveness of these caves. Vietnam’s little gem is tucked away so secretly and we have to say that to truly enjoy this place, you need time and freedom. Not something a guided tour will generally offer. This is slowly becoming our greatest words of wisdom for those looking at doing a similar trip. Although we tend to stick to tourist routes, by doing more off your own back, you will get more out of it. It takes a little more planning, but what you get back is so much greater.

Stunning scenery.

A short break for the intrepid explorers.

With one final night bus, its slowly sinking in that we’re getting close to our final days of this trip. But without thinking too far ahead, we had Hanoi to think about first. Ha Long Bay, a 1000 year old city and a good old party awaited us. Fancy following us to our final city?

Lanterns and romance in Hoi An

Our first night bus was an interesting and pleasant experience. After so many wonderful night trains in India, we didn’t know what to expect from Vietnam. In conclusion, they are certainly passable. You don’t get the local interaction or the constant chai as you do in India, but the seats/beds are comfortable enough and apart from it being quite a bumpy ride, we found the bus a good way to travel the large distances.

We arrived into Hoi An fairly early in the morning and the heat was already beating down on us. Thinking we weren’t too far away from a place to stay, we again refused taxi offers and headed towards the main market situated in the old part of the town. The market was already busy, with locals frantically trading with eager customers, we walked along the river bank with eyes on the buildings searching for a hotel. No luck. But we did find a little cafe – cafe des amis – and inside, it was as French as the name sounded. In fact, the entire town is incredibly French and quaint. The architecture is detailed and beautiful. With little window shutters and small balconies, it was hard to remember that we were still on Vietnam soil. Hidden speakers line the streets and play French music which creates a wonderful and peaceful atmosphere.

Truly relaxed.

With Malene enjoying her mornings fruit shake (not so French) and guarding our bags, I walked around in search of a place to stay. An hour later and I wasn’t any closer to finding anything. I’d found the main hotel strip, a small side street close to the old part of town, but prices were high; 15/20/25$ a night. Admittedly, most of them came with indoor pools and looked lovely, but we weren’t in Hoi An to spend our time in the confinements of a hotel lobby, and so I pressed on. Eventually, I found one for 6$, a 5th floor shoe box sized room with shared bathroom, not ideal, but all I could find. With my tail tucked between my legs, I headed back to Malene and told her the bad news. On our way back to said hotel, we took a little detour and found something much better. Again close to the old area, we found a family run hotel, with large rooms, tv and a bucketful of character.

After settling in, we headed back to small streets of the old town. Quiet roads with beautiful lanterns hovering above you and small shops offering a full spectrum of tourist goodies, had us captivated for hours. Next to the market area we found our first meal. Inside, what appeared to be an old town hall, row upon row of women and basic oven setups were cooking typical Vietnamese delights, the only difficultly was picking one. Vietnamese food was quickly becoming one of the hi-lights of this leg of our journey. Delicate vegetables wrapped in rice paper and sea food served with sticky rice was two of our favourites, but the menus were almost endless.

Hoi An’s beautiful streets.

A rainbow of choice.

Food glorious food.

With our bellies full, it was time for a little light refreshment. And with Bia Hoi at 2000 dong a glass, sorry, 6p a pint for those back home, it was hard to refuse. That evening we made plans, plans that got Malene rather excited. We were going to find a custom made, tailor fitted dress, or two and maybe some matching shoes for her. Not my ideal type of shopping exercise, but Malene liked the idea.

Cheap beer always makes us smile.

The following morning, we started browsing the many shops offering services that I’m sure a lot of women would dream of. The previous night, Malene had searched the internet for a dress that she liked the look of for her sisters wedding. Upon entering the first dress makers, we showed them the fuzzy image copied from google and everything went from there. First, choose a colour. Second, the material. And 5 hours later, like magic, there it was: a beautiful, hand made, tailor fitted dress. A true one of a kind. Next up, shoes. For me, it was a little too much. I headed back to our previous watering hole, blogged and waited for my beaming eyed girlfriend to reappear. This time with two dresses and a pair of shoes in hand. Success on her behalf and I had a matching tie too; all parties were happy!

The beginning of something beautiful.

A girl can never have too much choice.

That night, we strolled along the river banks and as the lanterns were turned on, more magic filled the air. French music serenaded us as we dined and the romance was tangible. Sorry for being so soppy, but Hoi An will have that appeal to all that travel here. This town quickly topped our Vietnam charts.

Watching our lanterns being made.

Romance wasn’t hard to find.

As quickly as we arrived, the following morning, we would depart. Without trying to rush around this amazing country, there was just too much to see in the short month that we had. Still, the world’s largest caves would be our next destination and Hue was planned as our base to visit them. Onwards and upwards it was.

Finding Nemo: Nha Trang

After a few cold days in Dalat, we were excited to find the sun again. The bus journey was long, but it was interesting watching the green hills turn into flat, red sandy coastal towns again. After out visit to Mui Ne, we were hoping for something a little better from Nha Trang.

As the buildings grew larger and the traffic got worse, we knew we were getting close. Once in the city, we were, again, dropped a few miles from anywhere of interest. We had to quickly get our bearings (google maps), grab our bags and start walking. At first it was nice getting back in the sun. Our bodies had quickly grown accustom to the drop in heat that we experienced in Dalat. There’s too much Scandinavian blood in Malene and British blood in me for it to take too long to get used to the cold again. Walking down Nha Trang’s main road, with the beach on our left and huge, elaborate hotels on our right, we knew we still had a while to go.

Beach days.

There was really only one thing on the itinerary for us to do here in Nha Trang. Malene was dying to do here open water dive course and after a lot of research, she had previously set her mind on this place. Why? 20 meter under water visibility (more than Thailand apparently) and the lack of sharks and other big fish of which she’s not so keen on. With Malene set on this, we headed towards the place she wanted to book it through. We thought, if she was going to do a 4/5 day course, then we should really be living close to the dive centre. I could feel her excitement rise in every step we took. For me, diving isn’t really on my shopping list. You could push me out of plane, off a waterfall or even off a bridge with a piece of elastic strapped to my ankles: I wouldn’t have the slightest of problems. But when it comes to underwater activities, be it diving or even snorkeling, then that’s where I draw the line. I like air. I feel I need air to have a good time and also to live too. Take that away and replace it with a big cylinder fixed to my back and something to inhale on and it just doesn’t feel right. I will be staying on terra firma as Malene dives into the deep and I wished her all the best.

At the dive centre (apparently the only National Geographic approved one in Nha Trang) we spent a long time going through the course and spoke to the guy that would be guiding Malene all the way. As I wouldn’t be there to help her with anything, it was crucial that she felt comfortable and happy, especially considering the cost of it all. We both felt a little nervous and didn’t know if it would be enjoyable or not. Still, I was fine. I knew it left me time to kick back, hit the beach and have a few lazy days, bring it on!

Around the block from the dive centre, we found a lovely little guesthouse that was owned by an elderly lady, but run by her niece. The rooms were a good size, with tv (ready for the F1 that weekend!), bathroom and fan and cost us 6$ a night: not complaining. The family also had two little children that were a delight and made us feel part of a family.

For a full account of Malene’s dive course, you’re going to have to ask her yourself. From what I’ve heard, she loved just about every minute. The first day was spent in the ‘classroom’ where she worked through a series of written tests (all in English). She of course passed them with flying colours and was itching for the next stage: the pool. This was her first experience using all the equipment, but in the safety of a pool rather than out at sea. Again, learning all the time, Malene got to grips with the different skills and sign language used whilst under the water. The final 2 days is where the real experience takes place. After an hours boat ride, she performed multiple dives and saw a myriad of underwater life. She particularly enjoyed playing with the little Nemo fish as they swam between her fingers. Back at the dive shop, together we went through the book of fish, and like a check list, she told me about all the beautiful exotic fish she saw, as well as the colourful coral. I am so proud of Malene for accomplishing something like this, and in English as well. I have so much respect for those that go out diving as its something that I can’t get my head around and I’m so glad that Malene had the opportunity to do it in this amazing part of the world.

Kitted up and ready to go.

Showing off her new paperwork.

As for me, it was a quiet, yet productive week. Instead of waking up at the crack of dawn to catch buses, I could take it easy, wonder the streets and meet locals. It gave me time to get up to date with this blog, although I think I need far more time to really make a dent in the work I still need to do.

Best smoothies ever.

Nha Trang was quickly becoming a favorite of ours. With clean, beautiful beaches, a relaxed atmosphere and the strange backdrop of the mountains, it was a stunning place to relax and live in for a week. What could make it better? Mud baths! One evening, we hired a scooter (yes, I have the scooter bug!) put on what looked like ex-military helmets and climbed through the deserted back streets to a quiet spa. It was like a little piece of heaven. Tucked away between gorgeous mountains we were definitely excited to plunge into the brown baths. Supposedly very good for the skin, but I didn’t really need an excuse to try them out. The mud was warm and quite thick. In fact, it was a very strange feeling as you can float in the bath and obviously what we needed after a very *cough* stressful few days. Life is so good! We then washed off and proceeded to a natural spring water bath and felt like royalty. Unfortunately there was no one willing to feed us grapes as we bathed in the silence of the mountains and so took a nice swim in the equally impressive swimming pool. As my first ever spa experience, it would be one that’s going to be hard to beat.

Relaxing in the mud.

After Malene’s diving course, we had one final day in Nha Trang and one final box to tick: Vinpearl Land. Situated on an island just off the coast and accessible via the worlds longest over sea cable car; reason enough to go we thought! Suspended 40 meters above the water and with jaw dropping views over the city, it felt a little bit like we were on a ski trip, but this time we were in swim shorts and on route to a huge theme park. It was time to feel like teenagers again! In the theme park, there are some pretty cool rides, including the Alpine Roller coaster that hoists you up the mountain in a little 2 man bob sleigh. From the top, the views were incredible. And as you race down the tracks, you control the speed with a little hand break – you go as fast as you dare! We literally skipped our way around the park, trying everything, eating cheap burgers and playing old school arcade games. Bumper cars was an obvious hit, but as midday crept up and with it the heat, the water park would be our next stop. With a maze of walkways and hundreds of water slides to try out, we felt giddy with choice. We tried everything. Twice. Sometimes more. At the end of it, we relaxed on the little beach with a beer and watched the water lap the sand.

Hollywood style sign at Vinpearl.

Young at heart.

Head over heels.

There is also a wonderful aquarium with a long tunneled walk through whe you can watch sting rays and sharks as the circle above your head. I might not be game for diving, but this was incredible. I felt like I was part of a David Attenborough documentary and even found some little Nemo fish – Malene wasn’t the only one! This place comes with our highest recommendations, its not difficult being young again here and we’ll take home memories that will last forever. Ok, it might not be a typical Asian experience, but nice for a change of scenery.

My type of diving.

With more bus problems, this time a little more serious, we in fact spent an extra night in Nha Trang. We weren’t complaining, as it meant the bus company had to pay for our, now upgraded, room. Hello A/C! The following day, we would head up the coast to Hoi An, apparently an old, French styled town situated on a river. Not really sure what we would do there, but had heard some pretty good things. Goes without saying: excited? Check.