Wild white water and crazy canyoning

Pokhara keeps on delivering excitement after excitement and squeezing our adrenaline glands until they’re drained. A day after returning from our 5 day Trek in the mountains and definitely still high from the experience we set off on our final adventure: white water rafting and canyoning. Nepal really offers the best when it comes to white water rafting. Not only are the rivers perfect; offering a range of grades to choose from, but the location is simply stunning, the people are fun and great guides and the camps where you sleep are so relaxing and peaceful.

It took Malene and I a couple of hours to reach the Trisuli river by local bus. As we travelled along the road, the cliff-drop off the side went all the way down to the river at the bottom. We hoped that we wouldn’t skid off the road and prematurely drop into the river.

Arriving at a little hut at the end of a small roadside village, we were instantly greeted by a group of guys, all of whom would be helping us throughout our two day adventure. Our bags were taken care of and we guided down off the road, though some houses and onto a pebbly beach. With the raft in front of us, already bobbing on the water, this was our first introduction with our vehicle for the next day. After a brief introductory chat we met the 4 guides and the 6 of us clambered aboard and paddled down stream.

The morning was good fun; we chatted, sang and played games on the raft. We also swam in the river as parts were calm enough to have a relaxing soak – really appreciated with the hot sun beating down. The real fun, however, didn’t start until after lunch. The rapids grew larger and larger and we were thrown around like rag dolls. The rapid grades grew from 3’s to 4’s (out of a possible 6) and everyone had to work hard together to keep our raft sunny side up. Water exploded all around us as we fought to hold on to the guide rope and our paddles. As we paddled hard and fast through the angry water, we soon felt tired. Using muscles we didn’t know existed, the sets of rapids just kept coming and coming. I was worried that the whole day would be like the morning, although good fun, this wave smashing, white knuckle ride was just what I needed, and great for Malene – it was her first rafting experience!

That evening, we had a short hike to a very remote campsite on the riverside. After crossing a huge bridge that suspends over the river we settled our bags down and collapsed in the hammock; arms and legs shattered from the days rafting. That evening, we were treated to live music and some great food. I even got a mustang coffee which was a lovely warmer and pretty much knocked me out ready for bed. Talking of which, our sleeping arrangement was in small tents, simple, but comfortable.

The following morning, after a great, hearty breakfast we strapped ourselves into a truck and headed off deeper into the hills. After half an hour of more bumpy roads, we reached a little house where we donned our wetsuits, helmets and this time the addition of again, unflattering harnesses. Equipped with rope we started our mini-trek up the hillside. Half way up the hill, we got very lucky as an out stretched snake was soaking up the sun and was lying across the entire track. He looked like a dried stick to me and I was inches away from stepping on him. Luckily we had Malene who was really watching where she placed her feet. Just as she was about to step over its tail, she screamed, “It’s a snake! It’s a snake!” A the snake sprung to life, we all back peddled. Luckily a dog that followed us up the hill ran forwards to confront it and sensing the danger, the snake scurried away through the bush. Afterwards, our guide assured us that the snake wasn’t poisonous, but as far as I was concerned, it was the biggest, baddest snake in Nepal…possibly the world!

At the top of the hill, we were hot and sticky as the wet suits kept all the heat locked in. We were greeted with a huge 70 meter waterfall that cascaded down over green rocks. It really was a beautiful setting for the beginning of our second day of adventuring: canyoning. For those who don’t know, canyoning (not canoeing spelt wrong) is the adrenaline fueled sport of abseiling down waterfalls, jumping off waterfalls and rocks into rock-pools and sliding down natural rock slides again into the warm water pools below.

Abseiling down the first slippery waterfall was awesome. Desperately tying not to slip on the green rocks as we slowly edged our way lower and lower, the water exploded over our faces and around our body. We looked down over our shoulders and that’s when the heart beats a little faster. We were suspended 30 meters above a rock pool, with water pouring over us. It was an incredible feeling of trust (in the equipment) and wildness. We were surrounded by nature and moving with it at the same time.

There were 6 different waterfalls and we took various different ‘methods’ to descend them. The final one was the most scary, and one of the most daunting things I have ever done. It was a 7/8 meter jump off a rock into the pool below. But that would have been too easy…this one required a running start in order to clear 2 meters of rock first and that had to be done on slippery wet rock, one false step, one slip and I doubt my little helmet would help me survive the surely fatal plummet. I won’t lie, it took me a few seconds to pluck up the courage and plan my next steps very carefully. And then it happened. In what felt like slow motion, I took 4 or 5 running steps and jumped as far forward as possible. Then, with arms flapping in the wind, I flew through the air and it really seemed to last a long time before I came crashing down to the cool water below. As the adrenaline exited my brain, I let out a cry of pure excitement and relief that I had made it! Now it was Malene’s turn! I watched patiently from the pool below. To be honest, she made it look very easy!

It was a fantastic finish to a great couple of days and a wonderful ending to our time in Pokhara. A town that really offers so much, you just have to decide how much you want to do. One things for sure, whatever you decide, you won’t be disappointed. I will certainly miss Pokhara and the lakeside. I loved the feeling of the town and the people, the laid back nature of it all and the options available to fill all your adrenaline needs.

No matter where we decided to travel to next, it would always be a little more relaxing than our time here in Pokhara. For us, it would be Chitwan, where we would search for tigers, rhinos and crocodiles…maybe the adrenaline would still be pumping after all?

Entering a world of adrenaline: Pokhara

14th – 28th February

This adventure actually began in Kathmandu and the second we stepped on the bus. Deciding to use a local bus, we managed to find an ex-formula 1 / adrenaline hunter bus driver with what seemed to be no apparent regard to the welfare of the passengers or the limits of the bus itself. As we tore out of the bus station, 2 things became clear – 1) accelerate as fast as possible and (2) brake as hard as possible at the last minute in order to pick up more weary passengers. This is the way it’s done in Nepal. In an attempt at covering the most distance in the shortest amount of time, this is method of driving adopted by all bus, taxi and tuk tuk drivers.

Without searching for it, adrenaline found us. With 100+ meter drops and no barriers lining the roads, one small mistake, one second of lost concentration, a swig of water or bite of a sandwich would have been all it took for us to plummet to the bottom of the mountain in our uncomfortable metal coffin. The roads themselves are also incredibly poor. I honestly thought the pot holes in England were bad enough to write and complain to my local council, but in comparison with Nepal…WOW…what was I worrying about? In England, a hole as round as a football and a couple of inches deep would be enough to put the tracking out on a car, crack a windscreen, even cause serious suspension damage…but out here?? Stretches of road for miles upon miles constantly test the driver as he weaves in and out of craters and looks for the best route through. Even with his skillful driving, we constantly drop into holes that stretch across the entire ‘road’ and the cracks and smashes even have the local passengers looking at each other with uncertain looks.

A bus ride in Nepal is crazy. A truly exhilarating ride, with breath taking views and a way to mix with the lovely local people. On the 7 hour journey from Kathmandu, we stopped half a dozen times for breakfast, lunch, snacks, toilet stops etc, and each time at more and more incredible locations. The closer we got to our final destination, the bigger and clearer the Himalayan mountains become. Like a photo slowly coming into focus, we watched with open mouths at the beauty and grandeur of the snow peaked mountains. Of course, I could have chosen to sit on the roof of the bus (a perfectly viable option) from where I would have received a much clearer and panoramic view of the countryside, but without making excuses, I simply didn’t have the balls.

Into Pokhara. With the sun out and the temperature back up into the mid 20’s, it felt like a perfect English summer. A cool breeze came in from the Phewa lake (largest lake in Nepal) and we checked into a hotel with prime views of it all: lake, mountains hills, city…perfect! The lakeside area we were stayed in is full of life; restaurants, bars, cafes and a spectrum of shops catering for the abundance of tourists. For trekkers, all your needs are accounted for, if you don’t mind imitation North Face merchandise, but its cheap and tends to look good. At night, the whole area changes as the street lights turn on and the music starts. Clubs (expensive drinking option) open, shisha bars entice and the younger travelers come out to play. With so many adrenaline based sports (mention later) available in the area, this is the place to come and wind down, chill and enjoy a host of food dishes from around the world.

On one of our first evenings, we met a French girl who had just finished a 5 day trek in the mountains. She talked to us about her experience and the pure delight and adventure she gained from it. Originally, Malene and I hadn’t planned on doing any trekking due to the price and time it took to really get the best from the mountains. But this girl was on such a high and talked so passionately about it that by the end of our conversation, we changed our minds. The very next morning, we went to the hotel booking office and brought a very expensive, but all exclusive (apart from drinking water) 5 day trekking package. The price of $230 each included all our mountain passes, accommodation for 5 nights our guide and as much food as we could eat. T date, it was the most expensive thing we had brought and we felt a little uncertain as to how good it would be. We had heard a lot of great stories from people trekking in this world famous Annapurna range of the Himalayas, but it was still a nerve racking time and a big decision to make. Question is, would we regret it? I’ll write a separate post with our experience of the mountains and without giving too much away, let me just say – the most beautiful place on this earth, mixed with sun, snow and ice, an incredible guide an overall memories that will be with us forever…but like I said, I don’t want to give anything away!

Mountain biking has been a passion of mine for a while now (15+ years) and I thought living in Sheffield with the Peak District knocking on my door every weekend was the best place for it. As perfect as the Peaks may be, there is something about riding around Nepal and Annapurna region, with the blue lake to one side and the sprawling mountains to another that really takes your breath away. With some good single tracks, crazy climbs to an ear popping height and full on technical descents, Malene and really tested ourselves. We travelled around the entire lake and up to a world peace stupa that lay on top of a small mountain that over looks Pokhara. At this simple, white monument that ancient Buddhist monks built, we enjoyed beans on toast whilst looking down on everything we had just climbed up. The feeling of achievement and solitude we had was truly amazing, but the beans was the real icing on the cake. After lunch we descended, and then descended some more. In fact, the next hour was a pure descent all the way back to our hotel. With a switch-back track, high beams and awesome drops, we raced down to the bottom. For those interested, Malene had a FS Jamis (1000 rupees per day) and I had a full bounce Meta 55 (2000 rupees) which was plush, well serviced and a pure delight to ride. I have to say thank you to the guys at the Pokhara Mountain Bike shop for being so fantastic. They provide the best bikes in town hands down and helped with organising routes for us…legends.

Without trying to cram too much into one week, the next day we hit the skies and flew with eagles. That’ll be for the next post though…thanks!