The Journey continues…

We had landed in Ludhiana. It was 2am, we were exhausted, but we felt very close to our final destination: Bilga.  Although it was early, I had to send a message to our contact and inform him that we were here – albeit 6 hours earlier than planned.  Unfortunately, there was no-one at the hospital at this hour, so we should aim to get a taxi from the station no earlier than 8:30.  Our choice was laid out before us: either stay at the station for 8 hours and wait it out, or get a taxi to an unknown destination and hope that the hospital was in an area whereby we could sit and wait.  We took the first option.

A very long 6 hours passed by and the time came to grab our bags and find a taxi.  With Bilga being around 30km from Ludhiana, a taxi, apparently, was our best option and shouldn’t cost more than 500IR (£6).  As we exited the station and approached the hustle that was the taxi-rank, all eyes immediately turned to us and like fresh meat to a sea of piranhas, we were instantly swarmed by people trying to offer us their taxi.  Feeling very conscious of our bags, we quickly found one guy who claimed to know Bilga and could take us there for 2000IR (£25).  This would take all my bargaining powers if I was to get him anywhere near our original price of 500IR.  Plus, I had the added incentive that I only had 1000IR in my pocket.  After 10 minutes of haggling and a phone-call to our English contact, we still couldn’t get him any lower than 1500IR.  It was at that moment that a young guy appeared out of the blue and in near perfect English introduced himself and asked where we were going.  He then told us to get into the taxi that we had been haggling with and not to pay 1 rupee more than a thousand.  Strong words were then exchanged between himself and the taxi driver and before we knew it, we were off.

Finally, after what felt like a tour of Punjab, we arrived at the hospital, our new home for…pretty much as long as wanted.  We were instantly given a full tour of the whole hospital which is based on 2 floors, however, the second floor is not being used as there isn’t enough patients yet.  Its strange: a modern, clean and free hospital for everyone, yet it seems very quiet here.  We would later to come realise that the local mentality here in fact discourages people to use these almost Westernised facilities.  People here are somewhat trepidatious of modern medicines and would rather visit their local doctors – often who have little or no qualifications, and receive incorrect medicine from them.  This becomes a major problem when the medicine given has no affect on the patient; they then become more sick and eventually the hospital here has to deal with patients that are far more sick than had they come in the first place.  Its a problem that the hospital is working greatly on and hopefully something we can get involved with later down the line.

Our accommodation for now is an apartment in a small block of flats that belongs to the hospital.  Staff and their families live here and we have already met a few of them, including the pet dog (3 months old).  We have a large living room, kitchen, bathroom and large bedroom – although no A/C (small issue at night) we do have ceiling fans. Its basic, but clean.  Apart from the lizards, cockroaches, frogs and ants, all of which prefer being indoors, it is very quiet here which is lovely.

A little shocked, we soon realised that our English contact was not here.  In fact, he was back in England and wouldn’t be coming over until the middle of October.  Unfortunately this meant that the hospital didn’t have any plans for Malene, but I feel that it has in fact worked to our advantage.  We both met Roger Berry, the founder of the orphanage in the next town – Kandola Kalan.  We would spend a short afternoon settling into our new accommodation and then travel out to the orphanage the following day; totally unsure what to expect.

The following morning at 9am, to guys, Bamjit and Paramjit, came to pick Malene and I up on their motorbikes.  I have decided that this is definitely the best way to travel around India! The cool breeze eases the heat and you really get to see all the sights up close and personal – often within touching distance as you meander through narrow streets and market stalls.  As we turned onto a narrow, cobbled-stoned track, we bounced our way closer to the orphanage;  a medium-sized building topped with a crucifix and surrounded by rice and corn fields.  We could almost hear the silence as the children were being on their best behaviour and ready to welcome us.  It’s strange, but I could feel an energy coming from the large front gate – something I would be apart of in the upcoming weeks.  As we entered, we were greeted initially by Roger and then by a sea of beaming eyes and big, pearly white smiles.  Each ‘class’ took turns to stand up and welcome us with larger than life voices as we felt like honoured guests.  There are 40 children here, with ages ranging from 4-18.  There are 5 teachers, each with their own class and a cook who makes 3 meals a day.  As we met all the children, Roger began to tell us his story of how the orphanage began and grew.  In fact it had grown to be much more than just an orphanage and was now a school, a church and a home for 30 of the children.  Most of the children either had no parents or were missing a father or mother and the other was unable to look after them.  All of the children had incredible stories and yet despite such  difficult beginnings, all of them are so joyful and full of energy: it is quite literally contagious the energy and enthusiasm they all have!  I found that by the end of the first day, I was rubbing my cheeks as they ached due to all the smiling and laughing!

Our new routine had begun.  We arranged with the hospital that they would take us in the morning – 3 on the bike (only in India) and the two boys from the orphanage would bring us back after dinner in the evening; around 7pm.  The next couple of weeks would be full of challenges, entertainment, smiles, games and dancing….but I’ll leave the details until my next post.

A beginning…

Starting this so-called blog is perhaps the hardest thing.  Getting the ball rolling and getting my experiences down on here is tricky, but hopefully worthwhile, and maybe you might like to see what it is Malene and I are up to nearly 5000 miles away.  I suppose the best way to start…is at the beginning…

After arriving into Delhi International Airport, we had no idea as to what was waiting around the corner for us.  Walking through air-conditioned hallways paved with carpet and decorated with elaborate paintings of various Gods, we eventually got to the arrivals desk and were pleasantly greeted by a very well dressed man behind the desk, who spoke English perfectly.  We wondered to ourselves if this was a taste for things to come…the answer soon came.

As we collected our bags, we made our way into the unknown, both anxious, nervous, but excited.  At first, the heat hit us with what felt like a quick, sharp blow to the stomach.  Not only the intensity of the heat (high 30’s) but the feeling of it too.  Its hard to explain exactly what it’s like, but try imagining someone removing the oxygen from the air – I assured Malene that we would get used to it…truth is, I had no idea!

The metro from the airport would have gotten us to the centre of Delhi in 10 minutes.  However, the guard with the AK-47 assured us that the metro was closed and I wasn’t about to argue with him: the bus it was.  After fumbling around with our bags (which seemed a lot heavier in this heat) we managed to track-down the right bus, paid around 50p each and sat down for what was about to be a half an hour trip through the outskirts of Delhi.  I don’t think Malene and I said a word to each other for the next 30 minutes.  With mouths wide open in amazement, we passed scenes that we will never forget.

‘An Assault on the Senses.’  To be precise, an assault on all the senses! Everyone uses their horns whilst driving what-ever it may be that they’re driving – cars, buses, lorry, tuk-tuks, bicycles, mopeds.  3 lane roads are jammed packed by 5 vehicles lined up side-by-side.  All the time, anything imaginable on either 2 or 3 wheels is weaving between everyone, trying to get their clients to their destination regardless of safety along the way.  The chaos seems seems random, unplanned and archaic.  It’s only when you look a little closer that it becomes clear that either (a) Indians are very lucky at avoiding each other, or (b) this system actually works…somehow.

Our first night in Delhi was at a rather plush hotel.  Although not plush at the time, after wandering around Delhi in the forthcoming days, we decided that we got lucky with our choice (or rather the choice of the tuk-tuk driver – as his family owned the hotel).  Our room was on the ground floor and the only room on the ground floor.  There were no windows, but it had A/C, a bed and a real toilet (seat and fully working flush!) – much to our delight!

Delhi for us was a bit of a crazy experience.  The pace at which life is lived at is truly amazing.  Everyone stares at us like we have arrived from a different planet…in fact, they will stare as they walk past you until either we’re completely out of sight, or they’ve walked into something.  We have been told by countless people, that everyone is simply curious of us and that most in fact feel humbled or honored that we are visiting their country.

After a good evening with a new friend – Nikhil, Malene and I decided to visit Agra, home of the Taj Mahal.  We were very lucky to find a very good tour guide – Mr Imran Khan who gave us the most detailed and elaborate tour ever, lasting about 2 hours.  Every piece of history was beautifully described as we walked around and through the beautiful palace.  He took hundreds of photos of us too which is never easy when on your own! The atmosphere was certainly more relaxed here in comparison to Delhi – some 300km away.  Malene and I felt more at ease and getting more excited at the prospect of traveling on to our next destination – Bilga – hopefully our home for the next 3 months.

Getting to Bilga was definitely an adventure in itself.  We were to take a night train from Delhi to Ludhiana, sleep in a sleeper carriage for what we initially thought would be around 10 hours.  After making yet more friends at the station platform, our train rolled in a mere hour and a half late – apparently fairly normal by Indian standards.  Malene and I quickly found our beds – the top and middle bunks of 3 in the smallest, hottest quarters I’ve ever seen!  Each ‘section’ had 6 beds, 3 bunks opposite each other within touching distance from each other.  We decided to try and get some sleep and proceeded to do so under the faint drone of the 3 fans that spun inches from my face.  Luckily, one of our neighbours, who we had been talking with at the start of our journey, woke me up after around 7 hours.  He assured us that our stop was imminent – we of course had no idea, but got ready all the same.  You see, there is no information being conveyed through speakers, no helpful LED signs letting you know what the next station is, plus, in the middle of the night, you cant even look outside to gain some sort of bearing.  Our neighbour saved us in this occasion…and we’ll go on to learn that we’ll be saved in many more times to come!

Of course, this is only the beginning of our story.  Much, much more has happened, but I will continue next weekend.  Hope it hasn’t been to boring for you – it’s certainly not been boring for us! Love to you all…

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