Finding Nemo: Nha Trang

After a few cold days in Dalat, we were excited to find the sun again. The bus journey was long, but it was interesting watching the green hills turn into flat, red sandy coastal towns again. After out visit to Mui Ne, we were hoping for something a little better from Nha Trang.

As the buildings grew larger and the traffic got worse, we knew we were getting close. Once in the city, we were, again, dropped a few miles from anywhere of interest. We had to quickly get our bearings (google maps), grab our bags and start walking. At first it was nice getting back in the sun. Our bodies had quickly grown accustom to the drop in heat that we experienced in Dalat. There’s too much Scandinavian blood in Malene and British blood in me for it to take too long to get used to the cold again. Walking down Nha Trang’s main road, with the beach on our left and huge, elaborate hotels on our right, we knew we still had a while to go.

Beach days.

There was really only one thing on the itinerary for us to do here in Nha Trang. Malene was dying to do here open water dive course and after a lot of research, she had previously set her mind on this place. Why? 20 meter under water visibility (more than Thailand apparently) and the lack of sharks and other big fish of which she’s not so keen on. With Malene set on this, we headed towards the place she wanted to book it through. We thought, if she was going to do a 4/5 day course, then we should really be living close to the dive centre. I could feel her excitement rise in every step we took. For me, diving isn’t really on my shopping list. You could push me out of plane, off a waterfall or even off a bridge with a piece of elastic strapped to my ankles: I wouldn’t have the slightest of problems. But when it comes to underwater activities, be it diving or even snorkeling, then that’s where I draw the line. I like air. I feel I need air to have a good time and also to live too. Take that away and replace it with a big cylinder fixed to my back and something to inhale on and it just doesn’t feel right. I will be staying on terra firma as Malene dives into the deep and I wished her all the best.

At the dive centre (apparently the only National Geographic approved one in Nha Trang) we spent a long time going through the course and spoke to the guy that would be guiding Malene all the way. As I wouldn’t be there to help her with anything, it was crucial that she felt comfortable and happy, especially considering the cost of it all. We both felt a little nervous and didn’t know if it would be enjoyable or not. Still, I was fine. I knew it left me time to kick back, hit the beach and have a few lazy days, bring it on!

Around the block from the dive centre, we found a lovely little guesthouse that was owned by an elderly lady, but run by her niece. The rooms were a good size, with tv (ready for the F1 that weekend!), bathroom and fan and cost us 6$ a night: not complaining. The family also had two little children that were a delight and made us feel part of a family.

For a full account of Malene’s dive course, you’re going to have to ask her yourself. From what I’ve heard, she loved just about every minute. The first day was spent in the ‘classroom’ where she worked through a series of written tests (all in English). She of course passed them with flying colours and was itching for the next stage: the pool. This was her first experience using all the equipment, but in the safety of a pool rather than out at sea. Again, learning all the time, Malene got to grips with the different skills and sign language used whilst under the water. The final 2 days is where the real experience takes place. After an hours boat ride, she performed multiple dives and saw a myriad of underwater life. She particularly enjoyed playing with the little Nemo fish as they swam between her fingers. Back at the dive shop, together we went through the book of fish, and like a check list, she told me about all the beautiful exotic fish she saw, as well as the colourful coral. I am so proud of Malene for accomplishing something like this, and in English as well. I have so much respect for those that go out diving as its something that I can’t get my head around and I’m so glad that Malene had the opportunity to do it in this amazing part of the world.

Kitted up and ready to go.

Showing off her new paperwork.

As for me, it was a quiet, yet productive week. Instead of waking up at the crack of dawn to catch buses, I could take it easy, wonder the streets and meet locals. It gave me time to get up to date with this blog, although I think I need far more time to really make a dent in the work I still need to do.

Best smoothies ever.

Nha Trang was quickly becoming a favorite of ours. With clean, beautiful beaches, a relaxed atmosphere and the strange backdrop of the mountains, it was a stunning place to relax and live in for a week. What could make it better? Mud baths! One evening, we hired a scooter (yes, I have the scooter bug!) put on what looked like ex-military helmets and climbed through the deserted back streets to a quiet spa. It was like a little piece of heaven. Tucked away between gorgeous mountains we were definitely excited to plunge into the brown baths. Supposedly very good for the skin, but I didn’t really need an excuse to try them out. The mud was warm and quite thick. In fact, it was a very strange feeling as you can float in the bath and obviously what we needed after a very *cough* stressful few days. Life is so good! We then washed off and proceeded to a natural spring water bath and felt like royalty. Unfortunately there was no one willing to feed us grapes as we bathed in the silence of the mountains and so took a nice swim in the equally impressive swimming pool. As my first ever spa experience, it would be one that’s going to be hard to beat.

Relaxing in the mud.

After Malene’s diving course, we had one final day in Nha Trang and one final box to tick: Vinpearl Land. Situated on an island just off the coast and accessible via the worlds longest over sea cable car; reason enough to go we thought! Suspended 40 meters above the water and with jaw dropping views over the city, it felt a little bit like we were on a ski trip, but this time we were in swim shorts and on route to a huge theme park. It was time to feel like teenagers again! In the theme park, there are some pretty cool rides, including the Alpine Roller coaster that hoists you up the mountain in a little 2 man bob sleigh. From the top, the views were incredible. And as you race down the tracks, you control the speed with a little hand break – you go as fast as you dare! We literally skipped our way around the park, trying everything, eating cheap burgers and playing old school arcade games. Bumper cars was an obvious hit, but as midday crept up and with it the heat, the water park would be our next stop. With a maze of walkways and hundreds of water slides to try out, we felt giddy with choice. We tried everything. Twice. Sometimes more. At the end of it, we relaxed on the little beach with a beer and watched the water lap the sand.

Hollywood style sign at Vinpearl.

Young at heart.

Head over heels.

There is also a wonderful aquarium with a long tunneled walk through whe you can watch sting rays and sharks as the circle above your head. I might not be game for diving, but this was incredible. I felt like I was part of a David Attenborough documentary and even found some little Nemo fish – Malene wasn’t the only one! This place comes with our highest recommendations, its not difficult being young again here and we’ll take home memories that will last forever. Ok, it might not be a typical Asian experience, but nice for a change of scenery.

My type of diving.

With more bus problems, this time a little more serious, we in fact spent an extra night in Nha Trang. We weren’t complaining, as it meant the bus company had to pay for our, now upgraded, room. Hello A/C! The following day, we would head up the coast to Hoi An, apparently an old, French styled town situated on a river. Not really sure what we would do there, but had heard some pretty good things. Goes without saying: excited? Check.

Pilgrimage and ginger donkeys

12th – 14th January

It would be nice to think that after 5 or 6 train journeys, we would have the system down to a fine art. Truth is, every time we step into a train station, we feel lost and bewildered. Trains in India appear to run on their own timetable, which rarely corresponds to that of the stations. Getting the right platform is almost purely guess work, but, as we’re rapidly learning, that’s ‘just the way it is’ – a common phrase we use out here! However, with all these struggles, comes a great sense of achievement and relief when you realise you’ve made the right choice. We have been traveling everywhere using the sleeper class – the cheapest option above general admission. In these carriages, there are different compartments, split into 3 tiers (each one acts as a single bed at night) with a further 2 ‘beds’ on the opposite side of the corridor (see photo for a clearer picture). With no A/C, these carriages can get a little warm, but its the people we meet and the changing countryside that keep us occupied on these long journeys. For example, leaving the Punjab (north) and its green fields of rice and wheat and a bitter 6 degrees, Malene and I slept and woke up in Rajasthan with it’s rocky, harsh landscape full of cacti, camels and 20 degrees. We would never experience these fascinating changes or meet India’s fine people or drink fresh chai on a 2 hour flight, so for those reasons, we choose the train, the world’s 3rd largest rail system with 20 million people using it every day, plus 2 confused yet excited travelers.

Entering Vadodara (known as Baroda to the locals), we knew or journey was far from over. It was 5am and a little dazed and confused from a bumpy night, we stumbled out of the station and searched for the bus stop. We knew there were 2 stations – local and district, we just had to find the right one for our bus to Halol, 2 hours away. Of course the first bus stop we found was wrong – too easy we thought. Luckily the rickshaws, were already buzzing around and not unlike vultures, they smelt our fresh, inexperienced, tourist blood and honed in on us. Finally at the right bus stop we found someone who pointed us in the right direction for our bus and by 7am we were on our way, not entirely sure if it was the right direction, but going somewhere, not an uncommon feeling in India.

As the sun rose, it lit the sole mountain in the region in a glorious bath of golden light. We knew we were getting closer to our destination – Champaner and Pavagadh. With the addition of the beautiful sun, we could also see that with this new state: Gujarat, the countryside had changed. It was green once again, similar to the northern state of Punjab where we started this adventure. We reached the final stop of Halol where we took a rickshaw to the base of the mountain. It was the first proper mountain we had seen since being here and were excited as it grew taller and taller the closer we got. After a 15 minute ride, we reached the bottom of the mountain and knew we needed to go up to find our hotel – Hotel Champaner, the only hotel in the area. But the rickshaw driver wouldn’t go any further, instead we had to clamber inside the back of a truck, and with no less than 18 of us inside (plus our 2 giant packs) we begun the ascent. Winding our way up the mountain, we were engulfed by forest and strange sounds. All the way up, signs depicting various neighboring animals gave us more information as to what we we listening to – donkeys, eagles, monkeys, strange coloured birds and cobra snakes, although we probably wouldn’t hear them until it was too late!

Half way up, the truck stopped and luckily the hotel was now well within walking distance. As we stumbled into the reception, a rather none charismatic guy, with a big collared shirt and matching gold jewelry, explained that our room wasn’t ready, but have some breakfast instead. Enjoying our morning coffee and desperate for some sleep we admired the spectacular view of the mountain.