Finding Nemo: Nha Trang

After a few cold days in Dalat, we were excited to find the sun again. The bus journey was long, but it was interesting watching the green hills turn into flat, red sandy coastal towns again. After out visit to Mui Ne, we were hoping for something a little better from Nha Trang.

As the buildings grew larger and the traffic got worse, we knew we were getting close. Once in the city, we were, again, dropped a few miles from anywhere of interest. We had to quickly get our bearings (google maps), grab our bags and start walking. At first it was nice getting back in the sun. Our bodies had quickly grown accustom to the drop in heat that we experienced in Dalat. There’s too much Scandinavian blood in Malene and British blood in me for it to take too long to get used to the cold again. Walking down Nha Trang’s main road, with the beach on our left and huge, elaborate hotels on our right, we knew we still had a while to go.

Beach days.

There was really only one thing on the itinerary for us to do here in Nha Trang. Malene was dying to do here open water dive course and after a lot of research, she had previously set her mind on this place. Why? 20 meter under water visibility (more than Thailand apparently) and the lack of sharks and other big fish of which she’s not so keen on. With Malene set on this, we headed towards the place she wanted to book it through. We thought, if she was going to do a 4/5 day course, then we should really be living close to the dive centre. I could feel her excitement rise in every step we took. For me, diving isn’t really on my shopping list. You could push me out of plane, off a waterfall or even off a bridge with a piece of elastic strapped to my ankles: I wouldn’t have the slightest of problems. But when it comes to underwater activities, be it diving or even snorkeling, then that’s where I draw the line. I like air. I feel I need air to have a good time and also to live too. Take that away and replace it with a big cylinder fixed to my back and something to inhale on and it just doesn’t feel right. I will be staying on terra firma as Malene dives into the deep and I wished her all the best.

At the dive centre (apparently the only National Geographic approved one in Nha Trang) we spent a long time going through the course and spoke to the guy that would be guiding Malene all the way. As I wouldn’t be there to help her with anything, it was crucial that she felt comfortable and happy, especially considering the cost of it all. We both felt a little nervous and didn’t know if it would be enjoyable or not. Still, I was fine. I knew it left me time to kick back, hit the beach and have a few lazy days, bring it on!

Around the block from the dive centre, we found a lovely little guesthouse that was owned by an elderly lady, but run by her niece. The rooms were a good size, with tv (ready for the F1 that weekend!), bathroom and fan and cost us 6$ a night: not complaining. The family also had two little children that were a delight and made us feel part of a family.

For a full account of Malene’s dive course, you’re going to have to ask her yourself. From what I’ve heard, she loved just about every minute. The first day was spent in the ‘classroom’ where she worked through a series of written tests (all in English). She of course passed them with flying colours and was itching for the next stage: the pool. This was her first experience using all the equipment, but in the safety of a pool rather than out at sea. Again, learning all the time, Malene got to grips with the different skills and sign language used whilst under the water. The final 2 days is where the real experience takes place. After an hours boat ride, she performed multiple dives and saw a myriad of underwater life. She particularly enjoyed playing with the little Nemo fish as they swam between her fingers. Back at the dive shop, together we went through the book of fish, and like a check list, she told me about all the beautiful exotic fish she saw, as well as the colourful coral. I am so proud of Malene for accomplishing something like this, and in English as well. I have so much respect for those that go out diving as its something that I can’t get my head around and I’m so glad that Malene had the opportunity to do it in this amazing part of the world.

Kitted up and ready to go.

Showing off her new paperwork.

As for me, it was a quiet, yet productive week. Instead of waking up at the crack of dawn to catch buses, I could take it easy, wonder the streets and meet locals. It gave me time to get up to date with this blog, although I think I need far more time to really make a dent in the work I still need to do.

Best smoothies ever.

Nha Trang was quickly becoming a favorite of ours. With clean, beautiful beaches, a relaxed atmosphere and the strange backdrop of the mountains, it was a stunning place to relax and live in for a week. What could make it better? Mud baths! One evening, we hired a scooter (yes, I have the scooter bug!) put on what looked like ex-military helmets and climbed through the deserted back streets to a quiet spa. It was like a little piece of heaven. Tucked away between gorgeous mountains we were definitely excited to plunge into the brown baths. Supposedly very good for the skin, but I didn’t really need an excuse to try them out. The mud was warm and quite thick. In fact, it was a very strange feeling as you can float in the bath and obviously what we needed after a very *cough* stressful few days. Life is so good! We then washed off and proceeded to a natural spring water bath and felt like royalty. Unfortunately there was no one willing to feed us grapes as we bathed in the silence of the mountains and so took a nice swim in the equally impressive swimming pool. As my first ever spa experience, it would be one that’s going to be hard to beat.

Relaxing in the mud.

After Malene’s diving course, we had one final day in Nha Trang and one final box to tick: Vinpearl Land. Situated on an island just off the coast and accessible via the worlds longest over sea cable car; reason enough to go we thought! Suspended 40 meters above the water and with jaw dropping views over the city, it felt a little bit like we were on a ski trip, but this time we were in swim shorts and on route to a huge theme park. It was time to feel like teenagers again! In the theme park, there are some pretty cool rides, including the Alpine Roller coaster that hoists you up the mountain in a little 2 man bob sleigh. From the top, the views were incredible. And as you race down the tracks, you control the speed with a little hand break – you go as fast as you dare! We literally skipped our way around the park, trying everything, eating cheap burgers and playing old school arcade games. Bumper cars was an obvious hit, but as midday crept up and with it the heat, the water park would be our next stop. With a maze of walkways and hundreds of water slides to try out, we felt giddy with choice. We tried everything. Twice. Sometimes more. At the end of it, we relaxed on the little beach with a beer and watched the water lap the sand.

Hollywood style sign at Vinpearl.

Young at heart.

Head over heels.

There is also a wonderful aquarium with a long tunneled walk through whe you can watch sting rays and sharks as the circle above your head. I might not be game for diving, but this was incredible. I felt like I was part of a David Attenborough documentary and even found some little Nemo fish – Malene wasn’t the only one! This place comes with our highest recommendations, its not difficult being young again here and we’ll take home memories that will last forever. Ok, it might not be a typical Asian experience, but nice for a change of scenery.

My type of diving.

With more bus problems, this time a little more serious, we in fact spent an extra night in Nha Trang. We weren’t complaining, as it meant the bus company had to pay for our, now upgraded, room. Hello A/C! The following day, we would head up the coast to Hoi An, apparently an old, French styled town situated on a river. Not really sure what we would do there, but had heard some pretty good things. Goes without saying: excited? Check.

A beginning…

Starting this so-called blog is perhaps the hardest thing.  Getting the ball rolling and getting my experiences down on here is tricky, but hopefully worthwhile, and maybe you might like to see what it is Malene and I are up to nearly 5000 miles away.  I suppose the best way to start…is at the beginning…

After arriving into Delhi International Airport, we had no idea as to what was waiting around the corner for us.  Walking through air-conditioned hallways paved with carpet and decorated with elaborate paintings of various Gods, we eventually got to the arrivals desk and were pleasantly greeted by a very well dressed man behind the desk, who spoke English perfectly.  We wondered to ourselves if this was a taste for things to come…the answer soon came.

As we collected our bags, we made our way into the unknown, both anxious, nervous, but excited.  At first, the heat hit us with what felt like a quick, sharp blow to the stomach.  Not only the intensity of the heat (high 30’s) but the feeling of it too.  Its hard to explain exactly what it’s like, but try imagining someone removing the oxygen from the air – I assured Malene that we would get used to it…truth is, I had no idea!

The metro from the airport would have gotten us to the centre of Delhi in 10 minutes.  However, the guard with the AK-47 assured us that the metro was closed and I wasn’t about to argue with him: the bus it was.  After fumbling around with our bags (which seemed a lot heavier in this heat) we managed to track-down the right bus, paid around 50p each and sat down for what was about to be a half an hour trip through the outskirts of Delhi.  I don’t think Malene and I said a word to each other for the next 30 minutes.  With mouths wide open in amazement, we passed scenes that we will never forget.

‘An Assault on the Senses.’  To be precise, an assault on all the senses! Everyone uses their horns whilst driving what-ever it may be that they’re driving – cars, buses, lorry, tuk-tuks, bicycles, mopeds.  3 lane roads are jammed packed by 5 vehicles lined up side-by-side.  All the time, anything imaginable on either 2 or 3 wheels is weaving between everyone, trying to get their clients to their destination regardless of safety along the way.  The chaos seems seems random, unplanned and archaic.  It’s only when you look a little closer that it becomes clear that either (a) Indians are very lucky at avoiding each other, or (b) this system actually works…somehow.

Our first night in Delhi was at a rather plush hotel.  Although not plush at the time, after wandering around Delhi in the forthcoming days, we decided that we got lucky with our choice (or rather the choice of the tuk-tuk driver – as his family owned the hotel).  Our room was on the ground floor and the only room on the ground floor.  There were no windows, but it had A/C, a bed and a real toilet (seat and fully working flush!) – much to our delight!

Delhi for us was a bit of a crazy experience.  The pace at which life is lived at is truly amazing.  Everyone stares at us like we have arrived from a different planet…in fact, they will stare as they walk past you until either we’re completely out of sight, or they’ve walked into something.  We have been told by countless people, that everyone is simply curious of us and that most in fact feel humbled or honored that we are visiting their country.

After a good evening with a new friend – Nikhil, Malene and I decided to visit Agra, home of the Taj Mahal.  We were very lucky to find a very good tour guide – Mr Imran Khan who gave us the most detailed and elaborate tour ever, lasting about 2 hours.  Every piece of history was beautifully described as we walked around and through the beautiful palace.  He took hundreds of photos of us too which is never easy when on your own! The atmosphere was certainly more relaxed here in comparison to Delhi – some 300km away.  Malene and I felt more at ease and getting more excited at the prospect of traveling on to our next destination – Bilga – hopefully our home for the next 3 months.

Getting to Bilga was definitely an adventure in itself.  We were to take a night train from Delhi to Ludhiana, sleep in a sleeper carriage for what we initially thought would be around 10 hours.  After making yet more friends at the station platform, our train rolled in a mere hour and a half late – apparently fairly normal by Indian standards.  Malene and I quickly found our beds – the top and middle bunks of 3 in the smallest, hottest quarters I’ve ever seen!  Each ‘section’ had 6 beds, 3 bunks opposite each other within touching distance from each other.  We decided to try and get some sleep and proceeded to do so under the faint drone of the 3 fans that spun inches from my face.  Luckily, one of our neighbours, who we had been talking with at the start of our journey, woke me up after around 7 hours.  He assured us that our stop was imminent – we of course had no idea, but got ready all the same.  You see, there is no information being conveyed through speakers, no helpful LED signs letting you know what the next station is, plus, in the middle of the night, you cant even look outside to gain some sort of bearing.  Our neighbour saved us in this occasion…and we’ll go on to learn that we’ll be saved in many more times to come!

Of course, this is only the beginning of our story.  Much, much more has happened, but I will continue next weekend.  Hope it hasn’t been to boring for you – it’s certainly not been boring for us! Love to you all…