I cannot contain the excitement I have for sharing our experiences of being up in the Himalayan mountains for 5 days. From the minute we set off until the moment we returned, this was the most exhilarating 5 days we have both had in a long time…maybe ever!
Our trip began at our hotel, where we met our guide; Mr Raj Kumar. I could honestly write an entirely dedicated blog just on this one man, his kindness, his compassion, his energy and his love for nature and the mountains. We had literally won the lottery when we were partnered up with Kumar as we realised that the whole experience could either be a success or failure based on the guide alone.
From the hotel, we packed our bags into the back of taxi and proceeded to head for the bus station. Hardly the trekking idea I had in mind, but essential to get us to the start of the ‘action’ and the foothills of the Annapurna range. For anyone interested in a shorter walk such as this, our itinerary would take us from Gandrup to Gorapani and include a sunrise tour of Poon Hill (3210m). I think by the end of this post, you’ll see just how highly we both recommend it!
With the sun high and hot and brilliant blue skies, we set off down a little used pebble track. With tiny local villages in the valley, we got an up close and personal view of farming and the local traditions. The river running in the crux of the valley also provided a nice way to cool off. After little more than an hour of walking, a dark cloud began to stalk us, and with no warning whatsoever, the skies opened up and delivered a blistering cold hail storm. With large marbles of ice pounding down on us, we quickened our pace and made for a tea house. Here we enjoyed a good macaroni dish – probably didn’t deserve it yet, but enjoyed it all the same. Whilst sat under the corrugated tin roof, another couple joined us, also in search of shelter. They had returned from a much longer planned trek (ABC – Annapurna Base Camp trek) after only a few days, claiming that the thigh high snow forced them to return. Malene and I looked at each other partly in shock, partly in surprise. We prayed that our trip wouldn’t have the same fate.
As the hail storm passed, we continued upwards, this time up steep steps that went on forever. We passed farmers in tiered fields following their buffalo’s as they plowed through thick, rich soil. As the minutes went past, the views seemed to get better and better. Step after grueling step produced fantastic glimpses across natural Nepalese countryside and we often stopped just to soak in the atmosphere – not because we needed a break, honestly!
Our first day was almost purely climbing. In fact, no less than 1000 meters in altitude were gained and for that, we were pretty happy with ourselves. Our first guest house was situated at the top end of a large village, Gandrup. The place was simple, rural and amazing. The views across the mountains took our breath away and after an evening of great home-cooked food and a Mustang coffee (explanation later), Malene and I wrapped up warm and tucked ourselves into our little hut. This was our first night away from civilisation, traffic, people and noise; it didn’t take very long to fall asleep, despite our excitement for the following day.
Bright and (very) early in the morning, Mr Kumar gave us a wake up call and as we stumbled out into the bright sunshine, we could see exactly why we had been awoken so early. The full mountain range spreading from mount Fishtail to Annapurna 1 and 2 were there in front of us in a pure, heavenly morning light. We could clearly see every detail; the trees, the snow caps, the cracks in the rocks. It was as if the mountains had come to life and only now, were we close enough to really see them. We all enjoyed a hearty breakfast sat outside with a prime view of the impressive scenery.
Continuing our walk, it didn’t take long for us to come across our first signs of snow. But as we continued, nothing was holding us back. Like mountain donkeys, we felt we could take and conquer all of natures’ obstacles. We crossed rivers, through waterfalls, over bridges and deep inside thick rhododendron forests. Every step delivered amazing views and we felt privileged and truly lucky to be experiencing such beauty first hand.
Along the way, we passed many locals trekking up the hill to their homes and businesses which were situated in the hillside villages. Many of them carried incredibly huge packs which were carried using one strap that was then wrapped around their foreheads. Carrying such baskets with only their necks supporting the weight is hugely impressive. In fact, at our second guest house, two elderly women (60?) came by and stopped for a break. As they carefully placed their baskets down and came over for a drink, we asked them if we could try and lift their packs. Of course they agreed, and with Kumar’s help, Malene and I tried to lift the baskets up onto our heads. Imagine trying to lift 80-90kgs, only using your neck muscles! To say it was heavy would be an understatement and although we managed to stand up, I doubt we could have walked more than 2 steps. Our respect and compassion for the porters of the mountains increased again.
The following morning, we set off early in anticipation of the difficult day ahead. This was day 3 and the ‘ice-day’ according to Mr Kumar. We were taking the trek in the opposite direction to what was considered the normal route. Although this meant a tough first day of climbing, it also meant that we would tackle the tricky ice day going up hill rather than down hill. We were assured by Kumar that going up hill on the ice would be easier. As we set off from our little mountain lodge, we picked up another friend, this time a thick black haired dog, with one tooth sticking out who we named Buddha or Bud for short. He led the way and was a lovely companion.
Slowly, but surely the ice patches grew larger until the path was completely covered. With no ‘proper’ shoes for these conditions, we were unsure as to how well we would get on. There was lots of talk about the need for crampons back at the hotel, but we dismissed them thinking it wouldn’t be that extreme. Al I can say is: Kumar, you were right again. Going up hill on the ice provided us with far more grip than if we were going the opposite (normal) direction. My little shoes gave sufficient grip as I raced Buddha up the mountain. The countryside looked like a winter wonderland with fairy tale pictures of iced rivers and untouched snow covered rocks and trees. We used our bamboo ‘disco’ sticks to help support us up the slippery slopes. I was amazing to see people travelling in the opposite direction, fully kitted out with big boots and huge spiked crampons and the looks on their faces as they saw my little summer trainers and Malene’s shoes wrapped with rope to give a little more traction. We were loving every second. The challenge, the views, Buddha and Kumar, the laughs we were having made this an incredible experience, it was perfect.
Our penultimate night in Gourapani was at a large lodge and full of people (50-60 people!) but with the unwavering attention and help from Kumar, we quickly had our room sorted and food ordered. Time for another Mustang coffee. Ingredients: black coffee, sugar and Roxie. – a home made mountain drink, somewhere in the region of 40-50% proof and a great winter warmer! As we sat in front of the fire and dried our shoes, we chatted with Kumar and the other trekkers. But we needed an early night, for tomorrow morning at 4am we would start the climb up to Poon Hill…in the dark!
The morning was cold and dark. As I peered out of our bedroom window, I saw floating lights travel past, up the hill and out of sight. Other walkers with head torches had already begun…this got us out of bed a little quicker. As we got down stairs, Kumar was waiting for us with our disco sticks. Lights on, we left the lodge. Starting up the hill, we took our time. Although the ice wasn’t worse than the previous day, the light from our little torches casted strange shadows and we needed to watch our step. Reaching the top it was still dark, but now with horizontal streaks of red light tearing through the sky. Dark silhouettes of tall mountains surrounded us. We had reached the top and now waited for the sun and the views it would bring light to.
We didn’t have to wait long for the sun to start its day. As it began behind a mountain, strange red rays of light spread across the sky. Before long, the light was cast upon the entire Himalayan mountain range and we were gifted with a 360 degree panoramic view. Each minute the sun changed and provided us with a different light in which to admire the mountains. It was a stunning view and obviously well worth the early start. The problem now was getting back down the hill through the heavily compacted snow and ice…at least it wasn’t dark this time!
Our remaining days in the hills provided us with more amazing memories, different views every minute and overall a great time spent with the lovely Mr Kumar. As we returned downwards, we travelled through more villages and watched the locals as they performed their day-to-day chores. The snow quickly disappeared and was once again replaced by lush green fields that stepped their way up the hillside. Peace and serenity engulfed us and everything felt so positive and perfect. I can honestly say that I have never been interested in walking or trekking, or whatever label you wish to put on it. I love finding adrenaline; mountain biking, snowboarding, canyoning, anything to get my heart racing and adrenaline pumping. But this trek provided all of that and more. Walking on ice-covered tracks past cliff drops and pushing your body upwards over steep rocks was so much fun. Coupled with the amazing countryside and spectacular views of the Annapurna range, it was the most perfect 5 days.
I must really thank Mr Kumar for being an incredible host, an amazing helper and who will always be a true friend. I hope you continue to trek and show the beauty of the mountains to other people. You are an amazing guide, full of love and passion for the world in the mountains. If anyone wants more information, then you can send me a message, or contact Raj directly with the information below. Our hotel (Hotel Peace Plaza, Lakeside, Pokhara) use him, but they also use other guides, so you wouldn’t necessarily be guaranteed to get Raj for your trip. Your best bet is to go directly through him (plus you won’t be paying the hotel!) and I really can’t recommend him highly enough. He is extremely experienced and will go above and beyond to make sure you have a trip of a life time. He does all treks in the Annapurna region as well as Mustang treks and Millennium treks. If you need information, this guy is a great source….just make sure you tell him I sent you (Chris and Malene, Uk and Denmark)!
Thank you Himalayas and thank you Kumar for a life changing and wonderful time. You can be sure that one day, we’ll be back for more.
Our travels through Asia 