Wild white water and crazy canyoning

Pokhara keeps on delivering excitement after excitement and squeezing our adrenaline glands until they’re drained. A day after returning from our 5 day Trek in the mountains and definitely still high from the experience we set off on our final adventure: white water rafting and canyoning. Nepal really offers the best when it comes to white water rafting. Not only are the rivers perfect; offering a range of grades to choose from, but the location is simply stunning, the people are fun and great guides and the camps where you sleep are so relaxing and peaceful.

It took Malene and I a couple of hours to reach the Trisuli river by local bus. As we travelled along the road, the cliff-drop off the side went all the way down to the river at the bottom. We hoped that we wouldn’t skid off the road and prematurely drop into the river.

Arriving at a little hut at the end of a small roadside village, we were instantly greeted by a group of guys, all of whom would be helping us throughout our two day adventure. Our bags were taken care of and we guided down off the road, though some houses and onto a pebbly beach. With the raft in front of us, already bobbing on the water, this was our first introduction with our vehicle for the next day. After a brief introductory chat we met the 4 guides and the 6 of us clambered aboard and paddled down stream.

The morning was good fun; we chatted, sang and played games on the raft. We also swam in the river as parts were calm enough to have a relaxing soak – really appreciated with the hot sun beating down. The real fun, however, didn’t start until after lunch. The rapids grew larger and larger and we were thrown around like rag dolls. The rapid grades grew from 3’s to 4’s (out of a possible 6) and everyone had to work hard together to keep our raft sunny side up. Water exploded all around us as we fought to hold on to the guide rope and our paddles. As we paddled hard and fast through the angry water, we soon felt tired. Using muscles we didn’t know existed, the sets of rapids just kept coming and coming. I was worried that the whole day would be like the morning, although good fun, this wave smashing, white knuckle ride was just what I needed, and great for Malene – it was her first rafting experience!

That evening, we had a short hike to a very remote campsite on the riverside. After crossing a huge bridge that suspends over the river we settled our bags down and collapsed in the hammock; arms and legs shattered from the days rafting. That evening, we were treated to live music and some great food. I even got a mustang coffee which was a lovely warmer and pretty much knocked me out ready for bed. Talking of which, our sleeping arrangement was in small tents, simple, but comfortable.

The following morning, after a great, hearty breakfast we strapped ourselves into a truck and headed off deeper into the hills. After half an hour of more bumpy roads, we reached a little house where we donned our wetsuits, helmets and this time the addition of again, unflattering harnesses. Equipped with rope we started our mini-trek up the hillside. Half way up the hill, we got very lucky as an out stretched snake was soaking up the sun and was lying across the entire track. He looked like a dried stick to me and I was inches away from stepping on him. Luckily we had Malene who was really watching where she placed her feet. Just as she was about to step over its tail, she screamed, “It’s a snake! It’s a snake!” A the snake sprung to life, we all back peddled. Luckily a dog that followed us up the hill ran forwards to confront it and sensing the danger, the snake scurried away through the bush. Afterwards, our guide assured us that the snake wasn’t poisonous, but as far as I was concerned, it was the biggest, baddest snake in Nepal…possibly the world!

At the top of the hill, we were hot and sticky as the wet suits kept all the heat locked in. We were greeted with a huge 70 meter waterfall that cascaded down over green rocks. It really was a beautiful setting for the beginning of our second day of adventuring: canyoning. For those who don’t know, canyoning (not canoeing spelt wrong) is the adrenaline fueled sport of abseiling down waterfalls, jumping off waterfalls and rocks into rock-pools and sliding down natural rock slides again into the warm water pools below.

Abseiling down the first slippery waterfall was awesome. Desperately tying not to slip on the green rocks as we slowly edged our way lower and lower, the water exploded over our faces and around our body. We looked down over our shoulders and that’s when the heart beats a little faster. We were suspended 30 meters above a rock pool, with water pouring over us. It was an incredible feeling of trust (in the equipment) and wildness. We were surrounded by nature and moving with it at the same time.

There were 6 different waterfalls and we took various different ‘methods’ to descend them. The final one was the most scary, and one of the most daunting things I have ever done. It was a 7/8 meter jump off a rock into the pool below. But that would have been too easy…this one required a running start in order to clear 2 meters of rock first and that had to be done on slippery wet rock, one false step, one slip and I doubt my little helmet would help me survive the surely fatal plummet. I won’t lie, it took me a few seconds to pluck up the courage and plan my next steps very carefully. And then it happened. In what felt like slow motion, I took 4 or 5 running steps and jumped as far forward as possible. Then, with arms flapping in the wind, I flew through the air and it really seemed to last a long time before I came crashing down to the cool water below. As the adrenaline exited my brain, I let out a cry of pure excitement and relief that I had made it! Now it was Malene’s turn! I watched patiently from the pool below. To be honest, she made it look very easy!

It was a fantastic finish to a great couple of days and a wonderful ending to our time in Pokhara. A town that really offers so much, you just have to decide how much you want to do. One things for sure, whatever you decide, you won’t be disappointed. I will certainly miss Pokhara and the lakeside. I loved the feeling of the town and the people, the laid back nature of it all and the options available to fill all your adrenaline needs.

No matter where we decided to travel to next, it would always be a little more relaxing than our time here in Pokhara. For us, it would be Chitwan, where we would search for tigers, rhinos and crocodiles…maybe the adrenaline would still be pumping after all?

High in the Himalayas: our 5 day trek

I cannot contain the excitement I have for sharing our experiences of being up in the Himalayan mountains for 5 days. From the minute we set off until the moment we returned, this was the most exhilarating 5 days we have both had in a long time…maybe ever!

Our trip began at our hotel, where we met our guide; Mr Raj Kumar. I could honestly write an entirely dedicated blog just on this one man, his kindness, his compassion, his energy and his love for nature and the mountains. We had literally won the lottery when we were partnered up with Kumar as we realised that the whole experience could either be a success or failure based on the guide alone.

From the hotel, we packed our bags into the back of taxi and proceeded to head for the bus station. Hardly the trekking idea I had in mind, but essential to get us to the start of the ‘action’ and the foothills of the Annapurna range. For anyone interested in a shorter walk such as this, our itinerary would take us from Gandrup to Gorapani and include a sunrise tour of Poon Hill (3210m). I think by the end of this post, you’ll see just how highly we both recommend it!

With the sun high and hot and brilliant blue skies, we set off down a little used pebble track. With tiny local villages in the valley, we got an up close and personal view of farming and the local traditions. The river running in the crux of the valley also provided a nice way to cool off. After little more than an hour of walking, a dark cloud began to stalk us, and with no warning whatsoever, the skies opened up and delivered a blistering cold hail storm. With large marbles of ice pounding down on us, we quickened our pace and made for a tea house. Here we enjoyed a good macaroni dish – probably didn’t deserve it yet, but enjoyed it all the same. Whilst sat under the corrugated tin roof, another couple joined us, also in search of shelter. They had returned from a much longer planned trek (ABC – Annapurna Base Camp trek) after only a few days, claiming that the thigh high snow forced them to return. Malene and I looked at each other partly in shock, partly in surprise. We prayed that our trip wouldn’t have the same fate.

As the hail storm passed, we continued upwards, this time up steep steps that went on forever. We passed farmers in tiered fields following their buffalo’s as they plowed through thick, rich soil. As the minutes went past, the views seemed to get better and better. Step after grueling step produced fantastic glimpses across natural Nepalese countryside and we often stopped just to soak in the atmosphere – not because we needed a break, honestly!

Our first day was almost purely climbing. In fact, no less than 1000 meters in altitude were gained and for that, we were pretty happy with ourselves. Our first guest house was situated at the top end of a large village, Gandrup. The place was simple, rural and amazing. The views across the mountains took our breath away and after an evening of great home-cooked food and a Mustang coffee (explanation later), Malene and I wrapped up warm and tucked ourselves into our little hut. This was our first night away from civilisation, traffic, people and noise; it didn’t take very long to fall asleep, despite our excitement for the following day.

Bright and (very) early in the morning, Mr Kumar gave us a wake up call and as we stumbled out into the bright sunshine, we could see exactly why we had been awoken so early. The full mountain range spreading from mount Fishtail to Annapurna 1 and 2 were there in front of us in a pure, heavenly morning light. We could clearly see every detail; the trees, the snow caps, the cracks in the rocks. It was as if the mountains had come to life and only now, were we close enough to really see them. We all enjoyed a hearty breakfast sat outside with a prime view of the impressive scenery.

Continuing our walk, it didn’t take long for us to come across our first signs of snow. But as we continued, nothing was holding us back. Like mountain donkeys, we felt we could take and conquer all of natures’ obstacles. We crossed rivers, through waterfalls, over bridges and deep inside thick rhododendron forests. Every step delivered amazing views and we felt privileged and truly lucky to be experiencing such beauty first hand.

Along the way, we passed many locals trekking up the hill to their homes and businesses which were situated in the hillside villages. Many of them carried incredibly huge packs which were carried using one strap that was then wrapped around their foreheads. Carrying such baskets with only their necks supporting the weight is hugely impressive. In fact, at our second guest house, two elderly women (60?) came by and stopped for a break. As they carefully placed their baskets down and came over for a drink, we asked them if we could try and lift their packs. Of course they agreed, and with Kumar’s help, Malene and I tried to lift the baskets up onto our heads. Imagine trying to lift 80-90kgs, only using your neck muscles! To say it was heavy would be an understatement and although we managed to stand up, I doubt we could have walked more than 2 steps. Our respect and compassion for the porters of the mountains increased again.

The following morning, we set off early in anticipation of the difficult day ahead. This was day 3 and the ‘ice-day’ according to Mr Kumar. We were taking the trek in the opposite direction to what was considered the normal route. Although this meant a tough first day of climbing, it also meant that we would tackle the tricky ice day going up hill rather than down hill. We were assured by Kumar that going up hill on the ice would be easier. As we set off from our little mountain lodge, we picked up another friend, this time a thick black haired dog, with one tooth sticking out who we named Buddha or Bud for short. He led the way and was a lovely companion.

Slowly, but surely the ice patches grew larger until the path was completely covered. With no ‘proper’ shoes for these conditions, we were unsure as to how well we would get on. There was lots of talk about the need for crampons back at the hotel, but we dismissed them thinking it wouldn’t be that extreme. Al I can say is: Kumar, you were right again. Going up hill on the ice provided us with far more grip than if we were going the opposite (normal) direction. My little shoes gave sufficient grip as I raced Buddha up the mountain. The countryside looked like a winter wonderland with fairy tale pictures of iced rivers and untouched snow covered rocks and trees. We used our bamboo ‘disco’ sticks to help support us up the slippery slopes. I was amazing to see people travelling in the opposite direction, fully kitted out with big boots and huge spiked crampons and the looks on their faces as they saw my little summer trainers and Malene’s shoes wrapped with rope to give a little more traction. We were loving every second. The challenge, the views, Buddha and Kumar, the laughs we were having made this an incredible experience, it was perfect.

Our penultimate night in Gourapani was at a large lodge and full of people (50-60 people!) but with the unwavering attention and help from Kumar, we quickly had our room sorted and food ordered. Time for another Mustang coffee. Ingredients: black coffee, sugar and Roxie. – a home made mountain drink, somewhere in the region of 40-50% proof and a great winter warmer! As we sat in front of the fire and dried our shoes, we chatted with Kumar and the other trekkers. But we needed an early night, for tomorrow morning at 4am we would start the climb up to Poon Hill…in the dark!

The morning was cold and dark. As I peered out of our bedroom window, I saw floating lights travel past, up the hill and out of sight. Other walkers with head torches had already begun…this got us out of bed a little quicker. As we got down stairs, Kumar was waiting for us with our disco sticks. Lights on, we left the lodge. Starting up the hill, we took our time. Although the ice wasn’t worse than the previous day, the light from our little torches casted strange shadows and we needed to watch our step. Reaching the top it was still dark, but now with horizontal streaks of red light tearing through the sky. Dark silhouettes of tall mountains surrounded us. We had reached the top and now waited for the sun and the views it would bring light to.

We didn’t have to wait long for the sun to start its day. As it began behind a mountain, strange red rays of light spread across the sky. Before long, the light was cast upon the entire Himalayan mountain range and we were gifted with a 360 degree panoramic view. Each minute the sun changed and provided us with a different light in which to admire the mountains. It was a stunning view and obviously well worth the early start. The problem now was getting back down the hill through the heavily compacted snow and ice…at least it wasn’t dark this time!

Our remaining days in the hills provided us with more amazing memories, different views every minute and overall a great time spent with the lovely Mr Kumar. As we returned downwards, we travelled through more villages and watched the locals as they performed their day-to-day chores. The snow quickly disappeared and was once again replaced by lush green fields that stepped their way up the hillside. Peace and serenity engulfed us and everything felt so positive and perfect. I can honestly say that I have never been interested in walking or trekking, or whatever label you wish to put on it. I love finding adrenaline; mountain biking, snowboarding, canyoning, anything to get my heart racing and adrenaline pumping. But this trek provided all of that and more. Walking on ice-covered tracks past cliff drops and pushing your body upwards over steep rocks was so much fun. Coupled with the amazing countryside and spectacular views of the Annapurna range, it was the most perfect 5 days.

I must really thank Mr Kumar for being an incredible host, an amazing helper and who will always be a true friend. I hope you continue to trek and show the beauty of the mountains to other people. You are an amazing guide, full of love and passion for the world in the mountains. If anyone wants more information, then you can send me a message, or contact Raj directly with the information below. Our hotel (Hotel Peace Plaza, Lakeside, Pokhara) use him, but they also use other guides, so you wouldn’t necessarily be guaranteed to get Raj for your trip. Your best bet is to go directly through him (plus you won’t be paying the hotel!) and I really can’t recommend him highly enough. He is extremely experienced and will go above and beyond to make sure you have a trip of a life time. He does all treks in the Annapurna region as well as Mustang treks and Millennium treks. If you need information, this guy is a great source….just make sure you tell him I sent you (Chris and Malene, Uk and Denmark)!

Thank you Himalayas and thank you Kumar for a life changing and wonderful time. You can be sure that one day, we’ll be back for more.

“What to do in Kathmandu?”

8th – 14th February 2013

Although not the cheapest option, flying direct to Kathmandu from New Delhi is certainly the quickest and easiest method. An overland crossing is lined with problems (so I’ve read) and with a flight ticket costing £75 and taking just over an hour, it was a no-brainer for us.

The first problem (hopefully this post won’t be a list of problems!) occurred in New Delhi airport, more specifically, in the duty free area. We knew we had to find a cash machine and get some dollars ready for getting a visa in Nepal, but couldn’t spot one anywhere. What was also a little strange, was that there were no currency exchange kiosks anywhere either. After enquiring as to their whereabouts, we were told that neither a cash machine nor currency exchange office existed in the airport. This created a problem. We had to find $80 from somewhere in order to pay for our visa when we land in Nepal. We had no idea how big the airport would be when we landed and didn’t want to find out what happened if we couldn’t cough up the cash. New Delhi airport – sort it out, invest in a couple of ATM’s.

Luckily, Kathmandu (in fact Nepal in general) is far more switched on. With a cash machine and a currency exchange office next to each other, they know exactly what tourists need. The fact that you can’t buy a tourist visa using Nepalese Rupees is a little baffling. I know the dollar is obviously stronger than the rupee, but still. Most of the places we visited, hotels, adventure sports offices, even some restaurants all offered services in dollars. Being a Brit and a Dane, these figures meant little to us and it normally came as a shock when we asked for the price in rupees.

Out of the airport doors, the sun was high in the sky and with a cool breeze we soaked up our first Himalayan view. The snow capped peaks that stretch panoramically across the horizon are breath taking: we already loved Nepal! Our hotel had provided a free pick-up service, which is a great way to save money and more importantly, confusion when landing in a strange city. As we crawled through the busy streets, tourists were everywhere, all peering into shops and trying not to be hustled too much as they browsed through a variety of souvenirs. The shops themselves were so enticing. Beautiful wooden carvings, richly coloured textiles, musical instruments and trekking equipment are just a few to mention. But what seemed apparent, was the lack of plastic, tacky items, that we came across frequently in India. For once, I was really looking forward to a shopping spree, much to Malene’s delight.

Our hotel was basic, but the rooms were large, there was hot water, the internet worked and the manager was helpful. With the added bonus of an airport pick-up (and drop-off) included in the price – 700 rupees (£5 per night) seemed like a good deal for a city that was crammed with hotels and tourists queuing to fill them. I must stress, to get a good price, you need to haggle and haggle hard. Be prepared to walk out and find somewhere else. Quite often, when you walk out, they will normally ask you back – that’s when you know you’ve won the battle!

We stayed in the Thamel area: the most touristy area, but good for a short stop. About half an hour walk to Dubar square and other temples, Thamel offers live entertainment in the evenings, great shopping and a host of restaurants offering food from around the world. Unfortunately, it was this international cuisine that was an early downfall for us. Our second evening in Kathmandu hit us hard. We decided to eat continental style and ordered a couple of cheese burgers at a beautiful restaurant lit by candle light and soaking in the atmosphere of quiet, chilled out music. The burgers, were delicious. The price, reasonable. The effect 4 hours later however was not so pleasurable. 24 hours later, most of which were spent either asleep or on the toilet, we felt a lot better. We had survived our first bout of food poisoning.

However, I don’t want to finish off our Kathmandu experience write-up with a negative feeling. There were so many great things about this city, mostly in the way it felt when walking around. It is far more relaxing than anywhere we had been to in India. The Nepalese people are absolutely delightful, very helpful and have very pure and kind hearts. We spent an afternoon at Dubar square which was very entertaining. Although advised by another tourist not to go, this was one of my hi-lights of our stay in Kathmandu. With huge temples and beautiful views across the city, this is a great place to relax and watch the world pass for a little while. And that’s exactly what we did. Sat high up on one of the temple steps and eating some fresh momo’s, we watched locals and tourists mix beneath us. Tourists, like ourselves, are fascinating to watch and we both recommend it.

As for a place to fly to, Kathmandu proved to be a lovely first stop. A place to find our bearings and learn what was on offer for the rest of the country. We used this place to plan out our next month, but I don’t think we would have believed at that point, just how good this month would turn out to be. This post is short, and probably incredibly boring for most, but I’m itching to write up what happened in our second stop: Pokhara, the adrenaline playground of Nepal, possibly the world!