4 million motorbikes, must be Saigon.

It’s starting to become clear that the buses and taxis are all working together. Like a not so sneaky plan, the bus drivers drop fresh faced tourists off on the outskirts of a city and then literally feed said tourists to the pools of taxi sharks lurking at the bus door. I’m positive there is either commission or/and a cut that the bus drivers take from the taxi drivers after tourists pay the extortionate rates they offer. I haven’t met a traveller yet, who has coughed up the price of a taxi (motorbike or car), and frankly, if I did meet him/her, I’d probably want to slap them. Laziness and stupidity come to mind. You’re often being dropped in a bus station, with other buses, many of them local. It doesn’t take to much energy to realise that the chances of one of these local buses going your way at a fraction of the taxi price are pretty high. Maybe I’m being short sighted, but that last option is what Malene and I tend to do and Saigon was no different. After barging our way through the crowd of blood thirst taxi men, we eventually found a local bus that was going the right way. Not only saving money, but making it a little easier for future travellers passing through. If tourists insist on paying these crazy prices offered by taxi drivers, then there’s no reason why they should ever lower the price of their services. If more and more travellers use local methods of getting around, then hopefully (I might be wrong, it’s happened before) taxi drivers will bring their prices back down. Just an idea.

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh city in the guide books) is an alive and buzzing city. With its complex road system as its veins and the motor bikes its blood, its life. Yes, there are 4 million motor bikes racing around the streets but its these two wheeled machines weaving in and out and over pavements, that give the city it’s energy. It’s totally daunting at first. Even deliberating crossing the road seems like an impossibility. Waiting for the green man at the zebra crossing doesn’t help either as (a) they can still turn right on a red and (b) 70% percent of them don’t actually adhere to the traffic lights. So watch out when the little green guy gives you the nod to cross…have a good look first, in all directions. That’s another strange rule that we’re slowly getting accustomed to, you can ride on what ever side of the road you like. For example, people in Vietnam drive on the right. However, if they turned left out of a driveway, and wanted to turn left further down the road, then the would stick to the left hand side of the road, thus saving crossing the road and traffic. Whether that makes sense or not, rest assure, it’s always a challenge crossing a street, but kind of fun at the same time.

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After dropping Malene and our bags off at a very expensive coffee shop and ordering one ball of ice cream (cheapest item on the menu), I headed out it the sweltering heat in search of accommodation. With our bags getting heavier and heavier, this was always the easiest option, and since I can use the map on my phone a little better, it was often my duty to search out shelter. It often felt like a cave-man-era thing to do. I would go out, make a hut out of dried palm leaves and then kill a pig for dinner. In reality, I just wanted to find the cheapest place possible. Cheap and Saigon don’t really go hand in hand. 15$, 20$, even 25$ for a room, in the heart of the backpacker district, this was ridiculous! After a little more sweat and a few more tears, I managed to find a few places for 10$ a night – still way over budget, but probably better than sleeping on the streets. We took it, along with its incredible A/C and fridge! Living a life of luxury.

Saigon is a great place to just wonder the streets. There is so much happening that you really don’t know where to look. I would say, keep one eye on the traffic (both front and back) another eye on the food stalls and street life and maybe your final eye on the fantastic architecture found in the buildings that line the roads. Sit down at any of the beer Hoi stalls in the evening and watch tourists dodge traffic and locals blow flames of fire from their mouths. Eating wise, it has to be street food. Vietnam is so famous for its delicious range of food and no where serves it up better (or cheaper) than the little glass cabinet vendors that you’ll see everywhere, normally with a sea of locals around them.

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Feeling a little bit more fashionable.

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Exhibit from the excellent war memorial museum.

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Street food, the best there is.

We took a one day trip to the Cu Chi tunnels, approximately an hours bus ride from the city. Again the sun was blazing hot, which we tried not to complain knowing what it was like back home. These tunnels are the original homes of the Vietnamese during the war and were dug by the Viet Congs in order to protect themselves and battle with the invading Americans. They dug tens of thousands of miles of tunnel networks and included booby-traps, secret entrances, kitchens, hospitals and weapon making factories. We got to go down and feel heat and closeness of the tunnels – even if they had been made wider for us fat tourists! In parts, I was on my stomach crawling through, almost imagining the American army squads walking just a few feet above me. It’s a well preserved and historically, very important area. We both gave it a big thumbs up and recommend it highly.

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One of the many secret entrances.

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A fat tourist.

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Standard tank pose.

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M60 time.

We made a lot of plans here in Saigon for the rest of our Vietnam travels, often slightly under the influence of cheap Bia Hoi. One thing we decided was to buy an open bus ticket that would take us all the way north to Hanoi and stop in all the cities we wanted to visit. At 40$ a ticket, it felt a bit expensive, but we were assured that its a lot cheaper than buying individual tickets along the way. We just hoped it would all run smoothly, and with just a receipt in hand, we left the bus office. We had no idea how many problems we were about to have.

First steps in Cambodia

Crammed like sardines, Malene, our two new friends Ellen and Anton and myself began our journey from Surin (Thailand) to the Cambodian border. With horror stories of lost passports and border officials over charging for visas, we made our way through the dense heat in our mini bus, fully equipped with the worse A/C system imaginable. Although uncomfortable, with our bags sat on our laps, the journey itself wasn’t too long and before we knew it, we had arrived at the desolate border. The taxi drivers, touts and guides rushed around outside the bus as we clambered out. Fresh tourist blood was here, and they wanted us! A million polite refusals later, we edged our way towards the visa office. One ‘guide’ who appeared to dismiss our refusal for help, walked in front of us and despite all the clear sign posts, he wanted to help us, and we let him. This, in all fairness, wasn’t a terrible idea.

We filled out forms, handed over our passports, payed in Cambodian Reils (not dollars like the guidebooks said) and waited as our guide ran between offices and got all our paperwork sorted out. Then came the taxi. It took us 45 minutes to haggle for this taxi. Our ‘guide’ was clearly getting commission and wanted to squeeze as many dollars out of us as possible. We argued. We haggled. We refused silly offers and nearly decided to walk away and find our own transportation. This final ploy always works a charm. The price was almost instantly dropped and there we were, shaking hands on the grand sum of 800 Baht per couple (£18).

The guidebooks claimed the journey would take around 6 hours, on roads barely fit for mountain goats. We prepared ourselves for the worse and hopped into the car, cranked up the A/C and set off. As we made our way down the high-way, the tarmac was smooth and void of any major holes, great start. As we continued along, we were still flying, enjoying the smooth ride and watching the countryside pass us by. One section of road, no more than a couple of hundred meters long, had been neglect of maintenance and we carefully plotted the best route through; this was the worse part of the ride and within 1 and a half hours (!), we were in Siam Reap. Void of broken backs and shattered teeth, the journey was smooth and extremely pleasant…thanks Lonely Planet for yet another bang on report.

Ah, Siam Reap! Even the name for me is cool in itself. Like an eagerly unread book, we were all excited to start exploring. And that’s exactly what we did, fully laden with backpacks, front packs, side packs: all the packs you can think of! We ploughed through the thick, unforgiving heat as we searched for a place to stay. Hotels, guesthouses, lodges; all seemed expensive and we were loosing hope as well as severe amounts of bodily fluids. Finally, as our exhaustion reached a new high, we stumbled on a little guesthouse that offered double rooms for 7$ a night, free pool (pool table, not a swimming pool as I first thought), hammocks and a bucket full of charm. They gave us free water and we felt like we had found a lost oasis in the middle of a sparse desert.

There are 2 main attractions that pull tourists into Siam Reap: the old market and Angkor Wat – sometimes claimed as one of the 7 wonders of the world (Angkor Wat, not the market) and we were excited to explore both. The market area is crammed full of little shops selling all the usual riff-raff, banana and chocolate pancake vendors (delicious), bars, restaurants and tuk tuks. Ah, the tuk tuks. Never have we been so bombarded by tuk tuk offers before. I personally think its a little game they play with tourists. See how many tourists they can make angry by constantly offering a ride. These guys pop up everywhere; on the street, in shops, at the bars, out of random windows – it became the standard greeting – “tuk tuk?”

Market done, we arranged to hire bicycles at our guesthouse (1$ per day) and decided to get to the Angkor Wat temple area for sunrise. Waking up the following morning at a ridiculous time, Malene and I hopped onto our rusting bikes and headed off into the morning darkness. With sleep still in our eyes, we flew out of the city and away from the street lights: darker still. As we edged closer to the temple ticket counters, the buzz was already alive. Tourists in tuk tuks arrived and we all lined up for our day passes to be printed off. The whole process was far more professional than the border crossing: set prices left no ambiguity and we even had our mug shots taken which were then printed onto the tickets. There was certainly a few things the border crossing offices could learn from a place like this.

Still under the light of the moon, we got back into the saddle and continued for a further 20 minutes. At the main steps of the temples there was a feeling of excitement as people loaded themselves up with caffeine, happily supplied by vendors, or sugarcane juice that has a similar effect. We locked our trusty steeds up and walked towards what was now an eerie shadow of the incredible Angkor Wat. Perched on the edge of a lily lake we waited along with 200 other people for the sun to rise behind the majestic temple. It was magical. A monument stooped in history and grandeur to match, we watched in silence and overcome by its beauty. As the sun rose, it became clearer and clearer. It’s colours and symbolic shape reflected perfectly in the lake, a symbol of power and grace, it was sublime.

That day, we followed meandering tree lined roads around the huge temple site. Visiting some incredible awe inspiring buildings and truly feeling like part of the Tomb Raider film. Temples surrounded by lush green forests which gave the whole place a sense of history and mystery. The magnificent Ta Prohm with the huge tree engulfing it was definitely another hi-light to what was an amazing day of exploring.

The ride back to town was hot, but well worth it as I raced a tuk tuk (and won!) and exchanged some strange glances with its occupants. Our final evening was spent watching a local circus, and as they performed tight rope tricks and insane 3 man high stunts we felt such a warm feeling (inside and out) and thought Cambodia is already incredible, how can it get any better? ‘Better’ would be in the shape of Kratie; our next stop, a grueling 12 hour bus ride away.

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Crazy market, the smells were…interesting.

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Sunrise at Angkor Wat.

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Trying to get the best shot.

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Religion and history go hand in hand.

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Entrance to mystery.

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A rare, indigenous lizard.

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More rare wildlife.

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Ta Prohm: What came first, the tree or temple?

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Looking for Lara Croft.

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On top of an ancient world.

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Cycling *cough* effortlessly.

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Circus time.

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I don’t even know how this is possible?

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We love Cambodia!

Mumbai madness

A visit to Mumbai was short, but on the whole, a sweet stop. Renown for being extremely busy and very expensive, it’s no lie, we weren’t especially looking forward to this leg of our journey. Arriving late in the evening, we headed to the taxi rank at the station. Immediately greeted by number outs taxi drivers, they all offered to take us to our hotel. – at silly prices. But we’ve never taken a taxi before in India, and well aware of their expensive nature, we decided to hunt down a rickshaw. This was our first mistake! Unknown to us, rickshaws were banned in the city centre. No matter how many taxi drivers made this point clear to us, we decided to persist in our search for one, thinking that they were trying to ‘trick’ us a gullible tourists. Finally we gave up. Hailed a taxi, swallowed our pride and started the mad dash across town to our hotel.

At the hotel, we checked into our small but comfortable room, switched on the tv and relaxed on our firm mattress – soft beds don’t exist in India – fact.

The following morning, we awoke bright and early and decided to head towards the rich dock area; home of the Taj Mahal Hotel (£250 a night) and the Indian Gate – an impressive monument aimed at welcoming foreign guests traveling the seas. Half way through our taxi journey, our driver turned around to us and claimed that the arranged fare wasn’t enough and in fact it’ll cost an extra 50 rupees. Reluctantly, we paid – our second mistake in Mumbai. This turned out to be a common trick, with most tourists paying the extra through lack of alternative choice. We promised ourselves we wouldn’t fall for it again…of course we would though.

We are constantly aware of the scams and tricks designed to suck as much money as possible from tourists. The truth is, it’s the little things, the small extra charges here and there that are the real problem. This taxi driver and his “50 rupees extra” ploy worked well and it’s a tactic we come across daily. It’s a real shame because it taints the experience of travelling such a beautiful, diverse country. Rant over, let’s get back to the trip…

Arriving at the crowed open space that fronts the Taj Mahal Hotel, we were greeted by touts offering a range of things including cheesy photographs, taxi tours of the area and good karma. I fell for the last option. After cleaverly negotiating my way around the various salesmen, one ‘religious priest’ caught my arm and quickly proceeded to wrap my wrist with a red piece of string and doned my forehead with a splash of red dye. Claiming I was now going to receive good luck/have lots of babies/get good karma etc etc, I now had to pay him. Strange how this priest wanted money! But I was stuck. I had been cleverly given a service that I didnt ask for and as the polite English man, I reluctantly gave him 20 rupees. Malene had a similar story no more than 10 metres from me. Except she had a happier ending. After the exact same story, she instinctively claimed that she was a Christain and didn’t believe in their ‘good karma’ trick. Without further persistence, the ‘preist’ quickly left her and found some less-clued up tourists. Clever girl.

A boat trip out to Elephant Island (an island lacking in Elephants) gave us the perfect view of this great expanse of a city. High rise skyscrapers and posh condos lined the waters edge and we could really see how the rich and famous from across the globe enjoy themselves here.

Landing on the island we walked to the entrance of the famous elephant caves. Unfortunately, there was a price – 250 rupees, the same as any of the other big Indian attractions. Feeling that we already had a good dose of caves not so long ago, we decided to have a walk around the island. Watching the eagles and monkeys we enjoyed a warm walk through the jungle.

Back on the main land, we walked casually through the streets and decided to take a train to the largest slum in Asia and the setting for the acclaimed ‘Slumdog Millionaire’.

The Dharavi slum was certainly massive. From a footbridge that crosses the train tracks, we had a good view of the area. However, the slum didn’t seem as basic as the one near our school in the Punjab. Here we could definitely make out different homes, proper roofing an even the occasional toilet. As we enjoyed fresh papaya, it was certainly an interesting walk. It was lovely to get away from tourists again, but the living conditions really made us appreciate the things we had back home. One thing the locals treasure perhaps more than we do back home are their families. With no nurseries or elderly homes, the whole family lives, works, eats, sleeps and prays together. The glue holding them together is incredibly strong and is the main way they survive in this harsh environment.

We headed back to our hotel and prepared for our next leg – a 30 hour train journey across India to Varanasi. Deep breath, it was going to be a long one!

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